|
Forum: Restores, Rebuilds and Tart ups.
|
|
Topic: Cb250 Charging issue. Who can solve the puzzle!?
|
| Re: Cb250 Charging issue. Who can solve the puzzle!? [message #302765 is a reply to message #302763] |
Sat, 26 September 2020 05:34 |
lkas94
Messages: 2
Registered: September 2020
Karma:
|
(1) Club Racer |
|
|
Hey Kakugo,
Thanks a tonne for replying.
Ive gone a checked and cleaned the connections - most are new in part due to the replacement parts anyway.
And I checked the ground using ohms setting on the multimeter, also checks out. No luck.
Well, 12.6v is good across terminal when off, but that not enough to charge when the bike running.
and those values i was speaking about of the volts AC at the stator connection are low I believe. Ive done some research and the volts should be increasing 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm, where as min only increase about 5 VAC.... Hence why i purchased a new one!
I tried to post a link but am not allowed. google *How to check stator on honda cb250 - 1991 Honda CB 250 Nighthawk* - its the 'FixYa' named website
Keep in mind these values are actually doubled, as to get the reading you probe between two of the three stator connections, as apposed to connecting to one, and the other probe touching ground.
Let me know what you think
Cheers
|
|
|
|
| Re: Cb250 Charging issue. Who can solve the puzzle!? [message #302766 is a reply to message #302760] |
Sat, 26 September 2020 12:40 |
Kakugo
Messages: 7856
Registered: August 2003
Location: Throne of Disgrace
Karma:
|
(18) Geoff Duke |
|
|
We usually take charging tension reading at the battery terminals, not at the alternator, for the simple reason since the 80's and the arrival of mosfet-controlled reg/rec it has become redundant.
On Japanese bikes from the 90's you usually get around 14.5V/3,000rpm when cold, which then decrease all the way to about 13.5V/3,000rpm when at operating temperature. If the battery is fully charged already and you have little load on the system you may see lower readings, such as 13V/3,000rpm.
The only test I always run on alternators is to check resistance, and so far it has been enough to diagnose them: you start getting weird ohm reading (usually lower than 0.2ohm) long before you need to check continuity. Shindengen generators (used by Honda starting from the late 90's/early 00's) tend to be very reliable but earlier units are less so.
To get back to us I did a little detective work last evening and found out the reg/rec used on the CB250 is an extremely common Honda item, basically the same as used on many models from the 90's. I also found it is very common to find on sale cheap aftermarket units, and by cheap I mean very cheap, about one third the price of a reputable aftermarket brand (ie Ducati Energia). What did you buy? 
Same thing about the reg/rec that came with the bike: was it a genuine Honda (likely Shindengen given the year) item or something else?
|
|
|
|
|
Forum: General Discussion
|
|
Topic: Garage doors
|
| Garage doors [message #302767] |
Sat, 26 September 2020 13:24 |
Gearbox
Messages: 5760
Registered: January 2004
Location: Beds (UK)
Karma:
|
(15) Kenny Roberts |
|
|
Hi All,
Looking to replace my ancient up and over to something more pleasant. Security is high on the list and I think I want something electrically operated.
Anyone with experience, recommendations etc.
Many thanks
|
|
|
|
| Re: Garage doors [message #302768 is a reply to message #302767] |
Sat, 26 September 2020 14:15 |
Kakugo
Messages: 7856
Registered: August 2003
Location: Throne of Disgrace
Karma:
|
(18) Geoff Duke |
|
|
Look up Hörmann or Faac: that's what used around here for industrial/agri garage doors, the kind that needs to protect very expensive and very nickable equipment. Faac has the advantage of having leads to run on a 24V battery in case of blackout.
Cannot comment on other brands.
|
|
|
|
Blog
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
